Sunday, May 05, 2013

Sierra Club One Day Hike - 2013 ... The Hike on 27 April

Sierra Club One Day Hike - 2013 ... The Hike on 27 April

Saturday 27 April 2013 dawned crisp, clear, and cool.

But our day started way before dawn. Earlier in the week, Ann and I drove from home to the starting place for the Sierra Club One Day Hike to check the time estimates from Mapquest and Google Maps. We also wanted to make sure we understood the directions. Ann especially wanted to make sure she would know how to get back home after dropping me off. So on hike day we knew where to go and how long it would take us.

We got up at 1:00. I'd actually slept pretty soundly. And since I had packed my bags on Thursday night, and set my hiking clothes out on the floor of my study, I was dressed and ready to leave the house at 1:15. It took us 45 or 50 minutes to drive to the Thompson's Boathouse parking lot in Georgetown, Washington, DC where people were already gathering. Ann and I said goodbye, and agreed that she would try to meet me at the second checkpoint on the hike. Ann drove home to get some more sleep. I went off to sign in and get my number.

After getting signed in there was a lot of waiting around until all the others showed up and we got our final safety talk from Mike. I sat on the curb and rested, not really understanding why so many others seemed to prefer standing or walking around. Seems to me that the first few miles would provide warm-up enough for anyone's day. The full moon was bright overhead. There was a chill in the air.

Then it was 3:00 and Mike led us out into Georgetown to the start of the canal towpath.

I usually hike alone - and did all my training alone - so it was quite different to be setting off in the dark with about 100 other hikers. Most wore headlamps and we must have been quite the sight. Anyway, as we got going I didn't feel that I was anywhere near my usual pace, but figured things would thin out as the tortises fell back and the hares leapt ahead. Then I thought I could pick up to my usual tempo.

Very soon we got to the C & O Canal itself and Mike sent us on our way. Then before very long I spied the 1 mile marker on the left side of the towpath. I thought I'd be seeing them all as we went by in a crowd, but actually missed seeing many of the markers. Things did thin out before too long, but we weren't by any means hiking alone. We passed under the Beltway and that's when I knew we were out of DC. If there was a sign at the border, I missed it, too.

Then I saw the 10 mile marker! (hadn't seen any others in the dark) I pulled out my watch to see how long it had taken to get there. It was 5:30. The arithmetic was simple: 4 miles an hour. Faster than my usual pace, so between trying not to be run over on the one hand, and trying to stay close to the people in front of me on the other hand, it was clear we were moving at a steady clip. And it was shortly after that point that I noticed that things were really thinning out. I never had the sense that a lot of people were passing me or that I was passing a lot of others. Seemed to me that those numbers evened out, and I was pretty sure that more people were in front of me than behind me. (I did ask twice at aid stations if they could give me a rough estimate of how many people were in front of me. Both times they looked at their clipboards and said, "Oh, about 25 or 30." I don't really know if that was the case or if that's what they tell everyone but the clear leaders. I had thought I was back closer to # 50 or so out of the 95-125 who were said to be starting the 100K.)

The first check-in spot came a couple miles later. The One Day Hike folks had set up tables with Gatorade on a small footbridge over the canal. We got checked off the list and I poured down two cups of Gatorade before heading on up the path. As I understand it, this is really where they get they count of how many hikers they have. I suppose someone could check in at the start, but decide at the last minute not to walk. And someone could show up at 3:05, check in and follow the crowd up the path. But if you're still walking at the 12 mile mark, you've committed to go as far as you can.

The sun had come up enough at that point that nobody had their headlamps on any longer. We passed Great Falls and I saw the trailheads for the Billy Goat Trail. Near those spots the canal was wide and beautiful as the morning mists burned off:
A mile or so before the first full aid station I saw Ann coming down the towpath to greet me. How nice! She had called my cell phone and left me a voicemail somewhere along the way, which I had noticed when I took my phone out to check the time as I left the Old Anglers check in spot. I'd called her right back and she had said she was on her way up from home. When I told her where I was she was surprised, too, at the pace I was keeping up.

I hadn't been sure Ann would get to the aid station before me, but she clearly had. As we walked in from there I enjoyed telling her that I'd seen lots of Mayapples blooming along the way, but that the best sighting so far had been a pair of red trillium that were just a day at most from opening in amongst a Mayapple stand. Very soon the Seneca Creek aid station came into view, and I settled into a chair so I could change my socks and eat some of the fruit they had available. This was our "breakfast" stop, so it included yogurt, fruit, coffee (?!), muffins, bagels, and probably other food. I gulped some down and said goodbye to Ann.

Then I was off again. The next aid station was at Edwards Ferry, only 8 miles away. On foot that's 2 or 2.5 hours. Ann made the drive much more quickly of course. As I was walking along I stopped to take a photo of the 26 mile marker (at 9:51 am), and emailed it right away to my daughter in Iowa.

I hadn't told any of my family that I was going to be walking 62 miles, so I thought maybe seeing mile markers might pique their interest. Okay, so 6 hours and 50 minutes isn't a fast marathon time; but we were walking not running -- and were only a little over 1/3 of the way done for the day.

Coming into the aid stations was always good. Even if the rest was only for a couple minutes, it broke up the day. And provided the chance for a little something different to snack on. I had packed along a "trail mix" that I made up of mixed nuts that Ann had roasted, some raisins, sunflower seeds and M&M candies. I also took along a package of store-brand lemon creme sandwich cookies. Protein, fat, sugar, and salt: the four building blocks of life. The aid stations had oranges and bananas, for example. Good stuff.

At Edwards Ferry Ann heard an older volunteer talking to another walker and understood the volunteer to say that she had walked the towpath 15 times. She also told us that we would probably be running into 50K hikers soon. It's only 4.9 miles from Edwards Ferry to Whites Ferry where the 50K starts, and in order for them to get a full 50 kilometers, they have to walk downriver a bit, make a U-turn, and only then head upriver toward Harpers Ferry. They'd all made the turn by the time I got there.

The Whites Ferry stop was our lunch stop. I stopped briefly, got a custom-made peanut butter sandwich from the support crew, changed my socks again, and shed my down vest. Ann, acting as personal support crew, took the vest and sweaty socks in her car so that I wouldn't have to carry them. Five or so miles after Whites Ferry I snapped a photo of the mile 40 marker as I passed it at a minute or two before 2:00 pm and emailed it to all my kids. The arithmetic says that's a 3.6 mph pace overall, even with the breaks at the aid stations. (Didn't figure that out at the time the way I often figured my pace during practice hikes, but having timed a few individual miles during the day I felt good about my pace.) I seemed to be on target to finish by 10 pm.

On to the Monocacy River stop, 6.4 miles ahead, at the 42 mile marker. This was where Ann and I had visited the canal a few weeks earlier. It's one of the many places where the amazing engineering of the 19th century is still visible. What to do when you're building a canal alongside the Potomac River, and another creek or river joins in from the same side? Well, if you're building the C&O Canal, you build a culvert for the smaller creeks and run them under the canal; or you build an aqueduct for your canal when you come to something the size of the Monocacy River.

I stopped to change socks, get a snack, put a couple quick bandaids on two toes, and talk with Ann. She took a photo of me there at just before 2:45:
There was a volunteer at this stop who asked about the hike and seemed unable to grasp why anyone would actually walk that far. I told him "for the glory" not really knowing what I meant by that. And, no, I'd never done anything like this before. Ann added that I had, of course, done some training hikes. It wasn't until I was a couple miles up the towpath that I thought I could have told him that my training hikes included 5 weekends where I walked 50 K distances by myself with no aid stations, no embroidered patch at the end, no glory.

It was a bit after this station, that there was a secret spot aid station for the hike. It was just a couple people with a cooler of bottled water. I took advantage of the opportunity to soak my bandana and pour a little water over my head cool off a little. It was never really hot during the day, but this was the warmest part of the day and I did need the cooling that provided.

The next aid station was at Point of Rocks, presumably named for some navigation hazard in the river. This was the "dinner" stop for the hike. They were serving hot soup that held no appeal for me at all. But I did order a lettuce, tomato, and cheese sandwich, washed down with about a liter of Gatorade.

While I was eating, seated on a small grassy hill, Ann noticed some other folks spraying themselves down with some sort of bug repellant. I hadn't noticed any bugs worth worrying over during my whole walk, so that held no interest for me. I suppose a July or August hike might have called for bug spray.

Another change of socks and I was on my way.

The whole hike was passing fairly quickly. Here's the C&O Canal in typical disrepair -- filled with trees and bushes rather than water -- as it appeared through much of the walk:
With the stops so close together, they seemed to come up quickly. During my training hikes at home, my mind would fill and empty several times over. I'd think about all sorts of things: work situations, writing ideas, birds I was hearing, the cold wind blowing off the Potomac in February and March, how many laps I had done and what my target distance was for he day, and more. On the One Day Hike, I found I was pretty well focused on the moment. How am I feeling? Is my pace good? Can I pick it up a notch? Should I time the next mile? Can I catch that person in front of me?

The Brunswick aid station was 6.6 miles beyond Point of Rocks. Towards the end of that leg, I think it was, the towpath turned into a road or driveway for some large summer camp sort of affair. Ann met me before I got to that part of it, and we walked in together as usual. Somewhere along the last mile before Brunswick I felt a blister pop up on the little toe of my right foot. It was at about the 50 mile mark. I had never done a 50 mile training hike, though I'd thought about it, and the blister just may have been avoided if I had. Or maybe not.

At Brunswick I hobbled into the first aid part of the station, took a seat and un-booted my feet. One of the first aid workers attended to blisters on both feet while Ann was filling my Nalgenes with drink. I took another ibuprofen or two, as I had done about every 4 hours, put on fresh socks and my boots, and stepped very gingerly out of the first aid tent.

It was still light, but late in the day. The next stop was the last one, and sat 7.3 miles ahead. It would take a bit to get there. I've found that whenever I'm hiking or backpacking more than just a couple miles, it's always hard to convince the soles of my feet to get started again, especially after having had my boots off. Usually that settles out after a dozen steps. This time, it took a couple miles.

I fell in with a 50K walker and we talked a bit as we went on. Less than a mile out of Brunswick I stopped at the 55 mile marker to take a photo of it, and told her I had emailed a couple photos to my kids without comments so as to make them curious about what I was doing. She offered to take a picture of me next to the marker, which I thought was nice. 
That was at 7:24 pm. The day was moving on. If I could get my tempo back I had another 2 and a half hours of walking ahead of me to make the 10 pm target (and even if not, there didn't seem to be anything getting in the way of finishing by the midnight cut-off time).

We walked on, and after a couple miles, as I said, my feet started to feel better again. Whether the nerve endings just gave up sending pain signals, or the ibuprofen kicked in, or what, I'm not sure. Anyway, I remarked on it and the other hiker urged me to go on at my own speed. I wished her good hiking and headed off ahead of her (she got to the finish while we were still there, not too far behind me).

Darkness settled in and the few hikers nearby -- mostly 50 K hikers, I think -- turned on their headlamps. They struck me as 50 K walkers because they were in groups of 2 and 4 and chatting. The 100K walkers were pretty much all solo artists by this point, focused, determined, and really not chatting (although I had just talked for 2 miles, hadn't I?).

The full moon hadn't risen yet and I checked my backpack again for the headlamp that I was pretty sure I had left in a pocket of the down vest Ann had taken for me. Yeah, it wasn't in the pack. The plus side of that was that then Ann could use it as she came down from the finish line to walk with me. And that she did. She must have come out about 2 miles from the end point, down the hill through town, across the bridge over the Potomac, down the towpath. It was good, as it always is, to see her.

People had talked about how hard it is to climb the stairs from the towpath to the bridge, and then to walk up the mile-long hill through Harpers Ferry. I didn't find either hard on my legs. Different muscle groups maybe. Or that I had trained well enough. What I would have found hard (without Ann) was convincing myself that I hadn't missed a turn on the walk up through town. The One Day Hike volunteers were there where we left the towpath at the bridge, and in Harpers Ferry at the bottom of the town (in the historic area), pointing the way to go. But blocks and blocks later, with no signs pointing the way, my certainty was wavering. Without my guide at my side I may have faltered. (There's a sermon illustration in there.) Until, eventually and finally, there were volunteers at the spot where we were to cross the road and head into the Bolivar Community Center.

Then it was over. Just before 10:00 pm. Cheers from the volunteers at the finish line as they checked my number off and wrote down the time. A photo taken. A colorful patch given. Some more food. Sitting a spell. And then off to our hotel, where Ann had already checked us in.

It was only in the last couple miles that my legs bothered me at all, and that was a spot behind my knee, not in my muscles. Lots of rest over Sunday, and more ibuprofen cleared that up quickly, too. And by Tuesday my toes and soles were recovered.

Now, a week later, I'm saying things to myself like "Well, if I do it again, I'll make notes along the way while I'm walking. And I'll take photos of the rest stops and volunteers."

But we'll see about that later. Right now I am thinking that since the available spots are so sought after, that the nice thing to do would be to sit back let someone else sign up in the February scramble for spots. Then, just maybe, if there is room and the registration re-opens later, maybe then I might sign up for another round.